Normally I like to do these at the beginning of the year and not halfway through it, but somehow they completely skipped my mind! So, before we get too much further into the year (or let it pass by completely), let’s look at what research has been added for the various supplements I’ve covered here […]
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ClimbSci Episode 5: Best Supplements
Hey Everyone! Here’s the new episode, on the best supplements for climbing. The notes for the episode can be found on the ClimbSci website. As announced last month (and subsequently failed, har :\ ), Tom and I are going to be releasing one episode every month from here on out. Each episode will be scheduled […]
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Siberian Ginseng & Climbing
I recently wrote a supplement guide on Siberian ginseng, also known as ciwujia. My goal with the supplement guides is to put the facts out there as best as can be determined by the science available, but this leads to a colder, more academic-feeling article. I think it’s important to have these articles out there—I […]
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Siberian Ginseng (Ciwujia) Supplement Guide
Facts at a Glance Siberian ginseng (ciwujia) is an adaptogenic herb thought to increase endurance. There are two active ingredients in the plant: the eleutherosides derived from the root and the ciwujianosides derived from the leaves; both appear to have similar effects, but only the former are commonly found in formulations. Siberian ginseng (Eleutherococcus senticosus) is in the […]
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Caffeine and Climbing
I recently released the Official Supplement Guide for Caffeine, an in-depth look at how caffeine affects performance (its ergogenicity) as well as information on its mechanisms, side effects, and dosage. After I release these guides, however, I like to also release a more reader-friendly summary version where I highlight the information most climbers will find […]
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Caffeine Supplement Guide
Facts at a Glance Summary Caffeine improves mood and energy, increases focus and accuracy, and decreases pain and rates of perceived exertion. Non-users stand to gain the most when using it as an acute ergogenic aid for short-term events, such as competitions or projects, but even habitual users can experience benefits such as improved training […]
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Supplement Updates 2017
Scientific research is ever-expanding. When I write my supplement guides, I can only reference the research that has been completed; new research will always add to the picture. Most of the time, this research simply adds to the consensus. If nothing changes except the overall strength of the consensus, it’s not worth updating each individual guide. […]
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Dietary Collagen Is Worthless
Awhile back when I was in Taiwan visiting a friend, his then girlfriend (now wife) took us to a little restaurant and ordered a small feast. One after another, the dishes arrived at our table, and were mostly fabulous. A less fabulous dish, however, was the pile of gelatinous, cooked fish skin adorned with colorful roe “sprinkles”. While it […]
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Why Don’t Glucosamine and Chondroitin Work for Climbers?
Last week I published the official supplement guide for glucosamine and chondroitin, but I also wanted to write a second, more reader-friendly executive summary (and alternate analysis) for these guides so you don’t have to go through the entire 2,000 word (or longer) document to get why I made such-and-such a recommendation. So this week, I’m going […]
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Glucosamine & Chondroitin Supplement Guide
Facts at a Glance Glucosamine and chondroitin are touted as joint health supplements, but appear to only be effective in treating the specific form of joint damage common to osteoarthritis (cartilage degeneration)—and even there, the science is less than decided. The type of joint damage common to climbers cannot be repaired or prevented by glucosamine […]
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