There is a camp amongst athletes that favors a high-fat, low-carbohydrate approach. Their enthusiasm is fueled almost entirely by the work of three researchers (Stephen Phinney, Jeff Volek, and Tim Noakes), who despite over 30 years worth of research have yet to produce any notable studies that demonstrate a low-carb diet to work better than—or […]
Read the full article...My Promise to You
The state of science changes all the time. Usually, it advances in small steps. Occasionally, by greater bounds. Regardless of the pace of change, it goes without saying that some of the things we know now will have been dismissed completely or evolved in depth 50 years from now. Dave Sackett (one of the early […]
Read the full article...How Much Protein Does a Climber Need (Part III)
In Part I of this series, I discussed a new model of protein intake (20 grams of protein every three hours). In Part II, I addressed some common misunderstandings and misconceptions about protein. If you haven’t read these first two parts, then I recommend you go back and do so now! In this final part, I’m going […]
Read the full article...Is Salt Really So Bad?
I’m about to take off on a short trip to San Francisco, so I probably won’t be writing anything for the next few days—but I didn’t want to leave you completely empty-handed for an entire week! So instead of a full post I’m going to write a really brief one and link you to a […]
Read the full article...Why Creatine Is So Important to Climbers
I haven’t written an official supplement guide for creatine yet—believe me, it’s on my to-do list—but I wanted to “prime” my readers to one of the reasons why creatine is potentially such a helpful supplement. Creatine, if you did not know, is used in one of our body’s primary energy systems. The phosphagen system (or […]
Read the full article...How Much Protein Does a Climber Need (Part II)
In Part I of this series of articles about climbers and their protein needs, I described a new model for determining how much protein you need, a model that doesn’t rely on your bodyweight, sex, or chosen sport: Aim to get about 120 grams of protein per day. Divide that 120 grams into six meals […]
Read the full article...How Much Protein Does a Climber Need (Part I)
Most people think they understand their protein needs pretty well—just get as much as you can, right? Or maybe you’re in the camp that thinks “I’m a climber, not a bodybuilder, so I really don’t need much at all. I mean, the forearms are tiny little muscles, right? It doesn’t take much to maintain them…” […]
Read the full article...Remember Climbers: You Are Athletes
When I see clients for sports nutrition, nine out of ten of them begin by saying, “I eat really healthy.” And usually this is true—I don’t think I’ve ever seen a client whose diet is abysmal. But there’s a question hidden in there that most people don’t think to ask, which is this: Healthy for whom? Many people […]
Read the full article...Make Your Own Sports Drink
I very rarely buy sports drinks—actually, to be honest, I can’t remember the last time. Not only are they incredibly expensive (at about $1 per “serving” and three “servings” per hour it adds up fast), they’re also not superior to anything you can’t easily make at home. In fact, you can actually make something better—at least so far […]
Read the full article...Sports Drink Reviews
This is a continually updated post. If there is a sports drink not covered here yet, it probably will be in time. You’re more than welcome to email me requests, I’m happy to oblige. READ FIRST! These reviews are based on my own expert knowledge of sports nutrition; I do not receive compensation in any […]
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