As many of you know, in the past I’ve taken a critical stance on dietary collagen protein and recommended against it as a supplement. Science evolves, however, and given the new research that has come out since I first took my stance, I thought it an appropriate time to revisit the topic and potentially reevaluate […]
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The Times Timing Matters
When does timing matter? Ten years ago, nutrient timing was huge; entire nutrition philosophies arose from the idea that there were “windows” when certain nutrients were more or less important. Today, accumulating evidence suggests this isn’t true—but timing as a concept isn’t quite dead. There are times and situations when timing matters. More specifically, there […]
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ClimbSci Episode 1: Protein
Late last night, Tom and I put the finishing touches on everything we needed to have done for an official launch of ClimbSci, our new webcast about all topics climbing and science. In the first episode, we talk about protein, including digestion, metabolism, amino acids (such as BCAAs), signalling, and requirements, and also answer a […]
Read the full article...The Importance of Proper Controls
In his book Bad Pharma, Ben Goldacre talks about how placebos often do not make good controls (he also talks about this briefly in one of his TED Talks starting at 7:50). The reason is that placebos are equivalent to no treatment, which isn’t helpful when the condition we’re exploring already has an established treatment. What we want […]
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How to Do a Vegan or Vegetarian Diet Right (as an Athlete)
Perhaps it’s the earth consciousness of the prototypical climber, but vegan and vegetarian diets seem to be more popular than normal in climbing circles. There are a number of famous vegetarian and vegan climbers, such as Steph Davis and Alex Honnold, and their public commitment to these animal-friendly diets only increases such diets’ popularity further. […]
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Reader Questions #4
Time for more Reader Questions! In this installment, I answer questions regarding: The Role of Carbohydrates During Climbing (Energy Systems) Big Picture Protein Intake Creatine Cessation and Strength/Power Question #1: The Role of Carbohydrates During Climbing (Energy Systems) I recently come across one of your articles about the effects of anxiety on climbing performance and […]
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The Sports Nutrition Pyramid
Occasionally, I come across articles that try to simplify sports nutrition by dispensing with most common “good practices” as unnecessary (like nutrient timing, macro goals, etc.). Usually, their core message is that you should just follow your instincts—eat what you want, when you want, and not worry about the specifics. I get why they’ve adopted this approach—it’s hard and […]
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Reader Questions #3
Here’s the third round of reader questions. This month we’ll be covering coffee, protein timing, and intermittent fasting. As a quick reminder, I’m always happy to take reader questions. Regardless of whether I answer your question publically for the community, I always reply in person as well. I fully encourage asking questions as well because […]
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4 Things That Won’t Help Your Tendons and 4 Things That Might
After I finished writing my glucosamine and chondroitin supplement guide and follow-up executive overview, I realized that what I had written could be disheartening. I don’t want to be solely the bearer of bad news, and I’ve also experienced firsthand how presenting only the negatives can fail to inspire change. Since one of the foremost goals […]
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Reader Questions #2
Another month, another set of reader-submitted questions. This round we have a question on the perennially popular protein, another on recovery nutrition, and a final one on energy drinks. Here we go! Question #1, on Excessive Protein Intake I am a 5’2″, 110lb female. If I were to consume 120g of protein per day, I would be consuming 2.4g/kg […]
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